Graptoveria ‘Debbi’ succulent care is easy once you learn a few tips. This stunning hybrid has soft pink rosettes with a thick coating of farina (epicuticular wax). Farina gives this beauty a powdery, pastel appearance. Fleshy gray-purple leaves can turn vibrant pink when stressed. With exposure to bright sun, it can even show some orange tones.
Once established, water occasionally; more in extreme heat or containers.
Full sun to partial sun
Minimum 20° F (-6.7° C)
Well-draining soil, use a container with good drainage
May benefit from a balanced fertilizer in summer
Up to 8 inches (20 cm) tall and about 8 inches (20 cm) wide
Echeveria Debbi, Graptoveria Debbie, Echeveria ‘Debbie’, Debbie Succulent
Mealybugs, aphids, vine weevils, rot
Tiny orange flowers in spring
Generally non-toxic to humans and animals
Graptoveria (grap-toh-VER-ree-uh) is a hybrid of a Echeveria and a Graptopetalum succulent. Specifically, ‘Debbi’ is a hybrid of an unknown Echeveria and Graptopetalum amethystinum. They are quite similar to Graptosedum (the word sedum refers to its orange flowers), another type of succulent. Popular Graptoveria favorites include ‘Fred Ives’, ‘Opalina’, and ‘Fanfare’.
Succulents, including Graptoverias, store water in their leaves to survive drought. This plant does not have very high watering needs. Replicate its natural habitat by giving your Graptoveria a deep watering. Then, let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Graptoveria ‘Debbi’ only needs minimal water during the winter. Remember, as with most succulents, less is more! If in doubt, be sure to use a moisture meter. Very inexpensive and it really helped me when I was new to succulents.
Graptoverias have moderate light needs and thrives in partial to full sun. 6 hours of sunlight a day is ideal. Consistent exposure to full sun will bring out the deepest colors this succulent has to offer. If your Graptoveria lives indoors, place in bright light near a sunny window or use a grow light if needed. It grows to be up to 8 inches (20cm ) tall with a spread of up to 8 inches (20cm) wide in ideal light conditions.
This frost-tender evergreen prefers warm climates, typically zones 9 through 11 (Minimum 20° F/-6.7° C). If you live in an area with a colder climate it is best to grow it in a container and then move it indoors in cooler months. Ideally, its environment should always be above 30° F. However, it can tolerate some cold temperatures from 20°- 25°F.
Well-draining soil is essential for keeping Graptoverias happy. If your succulent is left sitting in water, it’s susceptible to rot and fungal diseases. Add pumice or perlite to the soil to help increase extra drainage and be sure to pick a pot with a drainage hole. I also like adding coarse sand with perlite to commercial potting soil for 2:1:1 ratio. Even when I use a commercial cactus soil mix I still add perlite for increased drainage.
Graptoverias need to be repotted every few years to avoid compacted soil. Repot during the summer when the soil is dry. Start by gently brushing the soil off the roots. Inspect the roots for rot or other problems that are usually underground. Place in fresh well-draining soil and hold off on watering for a few days. This will allow the roots to get comfortable and heal from any damage during transfer.
Fertilizer isn’t a priority with this plant. If you want to give it a try though, do so during the summer with succulent or cactus fertilizer. It should be liquid and balanced or low-nitrogen.
Graptoverias naturally propagate via offsets. If you want to speed up the propagation process, this can be done by leaf and stem cuttings. Once you have the process down, you can easily multiply your Graptoveria collection.
Leaf cuttings are taken by carefully removing the leaf off of the stem. Gently twist the leaf to ensure that you remove the entire leaf and don’t leave any parts behind. This will increase the chances of successful propagation.That section in between the leaf and stem is what enables the cutting to grow roots.
After removing the leaf, let it dry out for a few days so that the ends can callous over. Once dry, set it on top of well-draining soil and mist it with water. Keep the soil damp until new roots have grown in. As the leaves begin to take root, return to a regular watering schedule.
Stem cuttings follow almost the exact same process as leaf cuttings. Take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the top of the plant, leaving a few inches at the base. This may be a frightening experience at first, but eventually you will be happy with the results. When removing offsets or stem cuttings, allow them to dry for three to five days (depending on your climate) before planting in soil or propagating in water.
Water propagation is one of my favorite methods and you can read more here. When placing in soil make sure the rosette is upright, and in well-draining soil. You can test if it has roots by gently pulling on it. If there is resistance, it has established some roots. The base should eventually produce new babies. Follow the above watering suggested watering instructions for leaf cuttings.
An all-star hybrid with beautiful rosettes. Colors can vary greatly with age and sunlight exposure, leading to mesmerizing gradients of pink, purple, grey tones. The foliage has a powdery coating of farina (epicuticular wax) to protect it in full sun. Some rosettes will even crest (fasciate) for a really wild appearance. There are also variegated forms of this plant in the succulent trade. In spring and summer look for even more color when Graptoveria Debbie grows orange flowers.
Be wary of overwatering your Graptoveria, which is the number one killer of succulents. Overwatering kills succulents much faster than underwatering. Symptoms of overwatering include yellow, mushy leaves that easily fall off. Remedy this issue by removing your succulent from the overwatered soil and place it in fresh well-draining soil. Hold off on watering for a week or so. If you still aren’t sure of when to water, a moisture meter will take out the guesswork.
Underwatering is harmful to Graptoverias, but much easier to fix. Give your succulent a good drink and it will usually perk up. When underwatered, the succulent leaves will shrivel up and the plant will wilt. They can also send out air roots. Read more about air roots here.
Etiolation is a common, but easily preventable problem with succulents. When the plant isn’t getting enough sunlight, it stretches toward the sun. If you don’t keep your Graptoveria in a bright location, it will grow stretched and less attractive than its typical compact rosette.
Once stretched out, it will not return to its tight rosette. Propagate the stem as mentioned above to give it a second chance and increase your collection size.
Graptoveria is an intergeneric hybrid of Graptopetalum (Greek for marked petals) and Echeveria (for Atanasio Echverria Codoy, a Spanish botanist). Graptoveria ‘Debbie’ is named after Debbi Foster, daughter of Robert (Bob) Foster.
They generally do not require a lot of maintenance. The bottom leaves will brown and die off as the Graptoveria grows, and this is normal. Be sure to remove these to keep the plant healthy and so that it does not attract pests like the evil mealy bug!
Mealybugs are the biggest pest threat to your succulents. They love to hide in crevices on your Graptoverias so be sure to inspect your plants regularly. If signs of mealy bugs appear in the form of a white cottony web or disfigured leaves, be sure to eradicate them immediately. These small white scale insects drink the sap out of plants and secrete honeydew that attracts ants. A Q-tip dipped in alcohol or a spray from an organic pest killing soap will do the trick. Read my complete post on mealybugs eradication here.
Aphids are less common but still a potential threat to Graptoverias. Like mealybugs, they suck out the sap. If left untreated, they will eventually kill your succulent. Protect your echeveria by applying diatomaceous earth to the soil and neem oil to the succulent. Use insecticidal soap to control existing infestations.
Vine weevil is a black beetle (flightless) that chews through leaves, causing them to turn yellow and wilt. Diatomaceous earth will prevent them. Unfortunately, vine weevils are resistant to most sprays. Removing them manually is the most effective remedy for infestations. Since vine weevils are nocturnal, you’ll be able to find them easily at night.
Learn more about Mealybug and pest eradication here.
Make sure you never let your Graptoverias stand in water or else the chances of root rot and other fungal diseases will increase. Root rot is caused by consistent moisture and can lead to bacterial infections. The good news is that it is easy to prevent. Avoid overwatering and use a well-draining soil.
Root rot is best caught early, so routinely check for rot on your Graptoverias. Rotted sections will be brown or black and mushy. The rot usually starts in the roots and spreads up the stem. If you find an infected part, you’ll have to remove it or else it will spread. After cutting away the rotted section, leave your succulent out of the soil for a few days so it can dry out and callous over. Repot in fresh well-draining soil and keep an eye on watering.
Brown spots may appear on your Graptoveria. These are most likely from sunburn. Move your plant out of direct heat to prevent further damage. Learn how to save your sunburned succulents here.
The Graptoveria succulent has a few different varieties:
Graptoveria ‘Bashful’ (the name is based on the fact its flowers grow very close to the soil)
Graptoveria ‘Titubans’ (Porcelain Plant)
Compliment your Graptoveria 'Debbi' with these varieties:
Shop Graptoveria Fred Ives
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