Echeveria Lola is pronounced ech-eh-VER-ee-a LO-la. A hybrid of Echeveria lilacina and Echeveria Painted Lady. Although, others believe Echeveria Tippy is the 2nd plant parent. Lola’s foliage is a delicate shade of pinkish violet. Alternatively, she may appear to be pale gray-green. In addition, she has a thick powdery coating. Also referred to as farina (epicuticular wax)
Once established, water occasionally; more in extreme heat or containers.
Full sun to partial sun
Minimum 30-40° F or -1.1- 4.4° C
Well-draining soil, use a container with good drainage
May benefit from a balanced fertilizer in summer
3-5 inches (7.62-12.7 cm) tall/6 inches wide (15 cm)
Lola Succulent, Echeveria Lola, Mexican Hens and Chicks
Mealybugs, aphids, vine weevils, rot
Pink and yellow bell-shaped flowers
Generally non-toxic to humans and animals
Lola’s has pointed overlapping leaves that form a tight rosette. In addition, the edges of each leaf have a sophisticated design. Similarly resembling a curly bracket. Echeveria Lola is a hardy plant. Furthermore, she grows well in containers and landscapes. In addition, Echeveria Lola is tough and low-maintenance.
Succulents store water in their plump leaves. Helping them survive drought. As a result, this plant does not have very high watering needs. Therefore, replicate its natural habitat by giving your Echeveria a deep watering. After that, let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Echeveria Lola only needs minimal water during winter. Along with most succulents, less is more! If in doubt, be sure to use a moisture meter. Indeed inexpensive and helped me when I was new to succulents.
Echeveria Lola has moderate light needs. For instance, she thrives in partial to full sun. Six hours of sunlight a day is ideal. Furthermore, consistent exposure to full sun will bring out the deepest colors Lola has to offer. If your echeveria is indoors, place it in bright light near a sunny window or use a grow light. Lola grows to be 3 to 5″ (7.62-12.7 cm) tall and 6″ wide (15 cm) in ideal lighting conditions. Thus, be sure to give her bright light.
This frost-tender evergreen prefers warm climates. Therefore, zones 9 through11 (minimum 30-40°F or -1.1- 4.4°C) are preferred. If you live in an area with a colder climate, grow Lola in a container. Certainly, move it indoors in cooler months. Additionally, its environment should always be above 40°F (4.4°C). However, it can tolerate some cold temperatures from 25°- 30°F.
Well-draining soil is essential for keeping Echeverias happy. If your succulent is left sitting in water, it is susceptible to rot and fungal diseases. Therefore, add pumice or perlite to the soil to help increase extra drainage. Be sure to pick a pot with a drainage hole. In addition to this, I also like adding coarse sand with perlite to commercial potting soil (2:1:1 ratio). Even when I use a commercial cactus soil mix, I still like to add perlite for increased drainage.
Echeverias need to be repotted every few years to avoid compacted soil. Additionally, to replenish nutrients. Repot during the summer when the soil is dry. To begin with, start by gently brushing the soil off the roots. Next, inspect the roots for rot or other problems that are usually underground. Finally, place in fresh well-draining soil and hold off on watering for a few days. This will allow the roots to get comfortable. And, also heal from any damage during the transfer.
Fertilizer isn’t a priority with Echeveria Lola. If you want to give it a try though, do so during the summer. Generally speaking, a liquid and balanced cactus or succulent fertilizer that is low in nitrogen is best.
Lola naturally propagates via offsets. To speed up the propagation process, try leaf or stem cuttings. Moreover, once you have the process down, you can easily multiply your Echeveria collection. In any case, it is easy to do.
Leaf cuttings are taken by carefully removing the leaf off of the stem. First, gently twist the leaf to ensure that you remove the entire leaf. Specifically, do not leave any parts of the leaf behind. This will increase the chances of successful propagation. In addition, the section in between the leaf and stem is what enables the cutting to grow roots.
After that, allow the leaf to dry out for a few days so that the ends can callous over. Once dry, set it on top of well-draining soil and mist it with water. Next, keep the soil damp until new roots have grown in. Finally, as the leaves begin to take root, return to a regular watering schedule.
Stem cuttings follow almost the exact same process as leaf cuttings. To begin with, take a sharp pair of scissors and cut off the top of the plant. Obviously leaving a few inches at the base. This may be a frightening experience at first. However, you will be happy with the results. In addition, allow the stems to dry for three to five days before planting in soil or propagating in water. Of course this can vary depending on your climate.
Water propagation is one of my favorite methods. You can read more here. When placing stem cuttings in soil, make sure the rosette is upright. And, in well-draining soil. You can test if it has roots by gently pulling on it. If there is resistance, it has established some roots. In fact, the base should eventually produce new babies. Follow the above watering suggested watering instructions for leaf cutting.
In spring look for pretty pink and yellow bell-shaped flowers. Echeveria Lola produces a 6 inch (15.24 cm) bloom spike.
Be wary of overwatering your Echeveria. Indeed the number one killer of succulents. Overwatering kills succulents much faster than underwatering. Symptoms of overwatering include yellow, mushy leaves, that easily fall off. More importantly, you can remedy this issue by removing your succulent from the overwatered soil. Next, place it in fresh well-draining soil. Finally, hold off on watering for a week or so. Furthermore, if you still aren’t sure of when to water, a moisture meter will take out the guesswork.
Underwatering is also harmful to Echeverias. On the contrary, much easier to fix. Give your succulent a good drink and it will usually perk up. When echeveria are underwatered, leaves will shrivel up and the plant will wilt. In addition, they can also send out air roots. Read more about air roots here.
Etiolation is a common, but preventable problem with succulents. When the plant isn’t getting enough sunlight, it stretches toward the sun. Consequently, if you don’t keep your echeveria in a bright location, it will grow stretched out. What’s more, is it will also appear less attractive than its typical compact rosette.
Once stretched out, it will not return to its tight rosette. Therefore, propagate the stem as mentioned above giving it a second chance. At any rate, increasing your collection size.
The name “Echeveria” comes from Atanasio Echeverria. A botanical illustrator who contributed to cataloging Mexico’s natural flora.
Echeveria Pest or Problems
Lola succulents generally do not require a lot of maintenance. Bottom leaves will brown and die off as the Echeveria grows. Without a doubt, this is totally normal. Be sure to remove dead leaves to keep the plant healthy. More importantly, so that they do not attract pests like the evil mealybug!
Mealybugs are the biggest pest threat to your succulents. They love to hide in crevices on your Echeverias. Therefore, be sure to inspect your plants regularly. Signs of mealybugs will appear in the form of a white cottony web or disfigured leaves. Be sure to eradicate them immediately.
These insects drink the sap out of plants. In addition to secreting honeydew that attracts ants. A Q-tip dipped in alcohol or spraying with an organic pest killing soap will do the trick. Read my complete post on mealybugs eradication here.
Aphids are less common but still a potential threat to Echeverias. Like mealybugs, they suck out the sap. If left untreated, they will eventually kill your succulent. Nevertheless, protect your echeveria by applying diatomaceous earth to the soil and neem oil to the succulent. Also, use an insecticidal soap to control existing infestations.
Vine weevil is a black beetle (flightless) that chews through leaves. Specifically causing leaves to turn yellow and wilt. Diatomaceous earth will prevent them. Unfortunately, vine weevils are resistant to most sprays. Removing them manually is the most effective remedy for infestations. Furthermore, since vine weevils are nocturnal, you’ll be able to find them easily at night.
Learn more about Mealybug and pest eradication here.
Make sure you never let your Echeverias stand in water. Otherwise, the chances of root rot and other fungal diseases will increase. Root rot is caused by consistent moisture. Subsequently leading to bacterial infections. In any event, the good news is that it is easy to prevent. Specifically, avoid overwatering and use a well-draining soil.
Root rot is best caught early. Therefore, routinely check for rot on your Echeverias. Rotted sections will be brown or black and mushy. The rot usually starts in the roots. Then, it spreads up the stem. If you find an infected part, you’ll have to remove it. Otherwise, it will spread.
First, cut away the rotted section. Second, leave your succulent out of the soil for a few days so it can dry out and callous over. Third, repot in fresh well-draining soil and keep an eye on watering.
Brown spots may appear on your Echeveria Lola. These are most likely from sunburn. Thus, move your plant out of direct heat to prevent further damage. Learn how to save your sunburned succulents here.
In conclusion, Echeveria Lola is an adorable household succulent. And, it is no wonder why. Her tight rosettes are real show stoppers. In addition to her ease of care. If you have any further Lola tips, please leave them in the comments below.
Finally, complement your Echeveria 'Lola' with these varieties:
In closing, the Echeveria Lola is a showstopper. You will not regret adding this beauty to your collection. Not to mention how easy she is to care for.
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